Slow travel: Hydra, a Greek island where no wheels are allowed, is the best place to just be

On my visit to this picture-perfect island, I stared at cats, counted seagulls, and napped under a tree

By Riddhi Doshi

On my solo trip to Athens last month, I found myself exhausted from constantly being on the phone, even while eating. There was so much to research, and I had to do it all by myself—what to see, how to get there, where to eat, when the last metro was, which was the best walking tour, etc. It felt like I was on a demanding work assignment rather than a holiday, always chasing the next thing on my list.

In response to my complaint, an Athenian archaeologist suggested I visit the Saronic island of Hydra to take a break from my overwhelming “must-do” lists. Yet, I instinctively asked her what there was to do on the island. “Nothing,” she replied. That, somehow, greatly appealed to my overworked brain.

The next day, I took a 90-minute ferry ride to the island where no wheels are allowed. No cars, no bikes, not even bicycles. This rule, made in the 1950s to preserve the island’s natural beauty and architecture, is followed even today, with a few exceptions like garbage trucks and kids’ bicycles, but only in the winter months.

Hydra is a picture-perfect island, shaped like a large amphitheatre. Its mountains overlook the azure waters of the Aegean Sea, and its winding, cobbled streets are dotted with white houses and brightly coloured doors draped in bougainvillaea.

As soon as my ferry pulled into the island’s harbour, hordes of donkeys stood patiently, waiting to be loaded with bags of cement, groceries, clothes, and other necessities for the island’s 3,000-plus residents and tourists. As there’s no other mode of transportation, these animals also ferry tourists to monasteries perched on the island’s cliffs.

But I decided to walk, as I had no agenda here. My plan was to embrace the wonders of wandering. After crossing the semicircular harbour, lined with small shops and cafés, the only road circling the island led me into an unending zone of silence, with the most stunning views of the sea. Moreover, there was hardly any internet connectivity here, which meant no notifications, rings, or beeps.

The only sounds were that of the waves crashing on the shore, donkeys braying, and cicadas singing. It was peaceful. I felt my shoulders relax and the tension in my neck and back disappeared. My eyelids grew heavy, lulled by the rhythm made by the waves. I found a bench under a canopy of palm trees and dozed off, only to be woken by a purring cat. She perched herself on the wall opposite me, stretching in the afternoon sun.

I stared at her black fur, green eyes, twirling tail, and majestic whiskers, realizing for the first time how beautiful and graceful cats are. I’d never had the time or opportunity to do nothing and stare at a cats before this. She must have sensed my admiration for her. She jumped onto the other end of my bench, her bum facing me. I moved closer, cautiously. She didn’t mind. When I petted her, she closed her eyes and began snoring gently, as if my touch had some magical quality. It made me feel amazing.

Just then, a little Beagle came running towards the bench, off-leash. To my surprise, he didn’t chase the cat away but came to lick my hand. “In the Greek islands, no one messes with the cats—not even dogs,” said the dog’s owner, Maria, a Hydra resident.

On this island, you can let your pets and kids run freely on the roads because there are no vehicles to harm them. Many tourists travel with their dogs here, and ferries have dedicated areas for pets. Being a dog mom myself, I loved how much Hydriots care for their dogs and cats. In many shops and restaurants, you’ll see posters appealing for donations for pet food, vaccination drives, and medical care for the island’s stray cats. These initiatives are run collectively by the island’s residents. Isn’t that lovely?

I donated to the cause and settled in for lunch at a small tavern in one of the narrow alleys. I was the only diner there, but the tavern buzzed with conversation and laughter as owner Michael’s friends wandered in and out to chat with him. “Everyone knows everyone on the island,” Michael said, smiling.

With my stomach full, I hit the road again, walking uphill to see the view from the top of the hills and explore the other side of the harbour. On the way, I saw American artist Jeff Koons’ art installation Apollo, a golden sundial spinning like a weathervane, perched on a cliff at the Deste Foundation, a former slaughterhouse turned art space.

Hydra has always been a hot spot for creative people. Canadian poet, songwriter, and novelist Leonard Cohen lived here in the 1960s. Other artists who have resided here include American novelist Henry Miller, Greek Nobel Prize-winning poet George Seferis, Canadian-born author Rachel Cusk, and novelist, poet, and playwright Deborah Levy. Even Pink Floyd’s David Gilmour owns a house here.

I think it’s the calm of Hydra—the kind that slows your breathing, relaxes your body, makes you hum, count seagulls, and stare at cats—that allows you to truly connect with yourself and hear your thoughts clearly. That’s what attracts artists to this place.

As I walked toward the harbour to catch my ferry back to Athens, I saw a couple of mischievous donkeys escape from the ferry, disobeying their burly handler and creating quite a ruckus. But I found myself saying, “I know how you feel, donkeys. If I had my way, I would never leave Hydra.”

How to get to Hydra
Hydra is just a 90-minute to 120-minute ferry ride away from Athens’ Port of Piraeus.

The ferry ticket price ranges between 35 euros to 52 euros, depending on the ferry you choose and the class of ticket. I took the Flying Cats ferry for 38 euros and economy class. I got a 15% off on my ticket.

Pro tip – If you are travelling in the off-season, mainly in the winter months, get your tickets at the ticket counter at the port. You will get an on-the-spot discount here, which is not available online.

How to get to Port Piraeus – Taxis and metros ply to to Port Piraeus from any part of Athens. I took a metro as it was just 5 euros and quite comfortable.

This blog post is part of ‘Blogaberry Dazzle’
hosted by Cindy D’Silva and Noor Anand Chawla 
in collaboration with Dr. Preeti Chauhan.